After a few days in Podgora, we went to the second largest city in Croatia, and largest in Dalmatia: Split. The centre of the city is built around the old Roman palace, belonging to the emperor Diocletian and therefore called “Diocletian’s Palace”. Inside the palace walls are the streets, laneways, shops, homes and restaurants.
Where We Stayed
The Varoš neighbourhood is one of the oldest in the city, with charming stone houses and tiny laneways. It is very close to the city centre and the promenade along the water, but as there are no roads for cars within the neighbourhood, it can be difficult to get to with luggage. We stayed at this AirBnb which had an amazing host who provided us with numerous recommendations.
Where We Ate
Our first meal in Split was at “Restaurant Fife”, suggested to us by the AirBnB host. It is located at the bottom of Varoš and serves traditional Dalmatian and Croatian food. The food was prepared as if we were guests in somebody’s house, simply made but tasty and CHEAP. For a plate of Sarma (stuffed cabbage roll in sauce) with mashed potato and Pašticada (beef in a stew-like sauce) with gnocchi, and two Coca Cola Zero we paid less than $30.00 AUD.
On our last night, Todd wanted Brodie to try ‘peka’ a traditional Dalmatian way of cooking meat and vegetables in a bell-like dome under coals. The meat is exceptionally tender, with the vegetables (especially the potatoes) soaking up the juices and getting extra flavour. Not many restaurants with the cities and towns serve this as it takes a number of hours to prepare, however we searched online and found that you can book a day in advance at Diocletian Wine Bar to have them prepare for you. We booked an early dinner as Croatia was playing in the soccer that night and did not want to miss it, and within minutes of walking in, our food was served to us. At this restaurant you have the choice of veal or octopus, however you can cook any combination of meat and vegetables in peka. We did not eat anything else at the restaurant, however would love to go back as the decor and menu was very appealing.
What We Did
We mostly just walked around the old streets of both Diocletian’s Palace and Varoš, in addition to the waterfront promenade called Riva. The vibe in Split is very relaxed, with people sipping coffee at all hours of the day and it is easy to fall into that frame of mind. Inside Diocletian’s Palace, there is the cathedral and bell tower of “Sveti Duje”, which you can climb up (if you’re not afraid of heights) and get amazing views of the city.
Favourite Things About Split
Todd: The food
Brodie: Restaurant Fife